Once someone told me: YoU cAn’t Go tO PaTaGOnIa iN wiNtEr, eveRytHing Is clOseD
Well, that was wrong, I went in early August and everything was fine and open However, I still had to make that article, due to the many specifics.
Ok; let’s dive in, I’ll review:
- Weather
- The hostel situation
- Transport
- Crossing borders
- Activities
Weather
It’s cold but not that cold, I had around 5°C in the afternoons and -10°C during the coldest nights.
I wore:
- A t-shirt
- A simple vest
- Warm socks
- Gloves
- A simple beanie
- Thermal underpants
Nothing crazy.
When hiking Torres del Paine, it can get hots, so it’s better to layer clothes. If you’re static, you will get cold. The winter season is less windy than summer’s, meaning that it doesn’t feel that cold.
Hostels
- Argentina is ok
- It’s difficult to find hostels in Puerto Natales, Chile
I found one room in a house, with a broken window, my phone froze
- Hotels are expensive
- Airbns were not common (And expensive too)
Restaurants were not that better, many were closed down, but grocery stores were open
Cooking is a valid solution Camping is not.
Transportation
Only one or two buses a day run from Punta Arenas to Puerto Natales, they are slow and departs a bit late in the morning. They take about 3–4 hours and often leave late
Transcountry buses run from Puerto Natales (once a day), going to El calafate, through El Turbio’s border.
They are easily full, do book in advance if possible. I asked my place for help
Everything takes quite a bit of time, allow yourself enough travel days.
My ratio travel/transport wasn’t the best. With more days, I would have moved less and hiked more, like El Chalten
- In Chile, check Bus Sur or Buses Fernández.
- In Argentina, look for Marga Taqsa, Cal Tur, or Taqsa Patagonia.
El Chaltén can be reached from El Calafate even in winter, but buses are limited — usually every two or three days. I booked a tour
The border crossings are fine but slow down considerably the trips, count one to two hours to cross a border. Between Chile and Argentina, I had to wait one hour for someone to come to scan the passports.
Pro tip: Always confirm return times directly at the terminal. Online info is outdated half the time.
Activities
Hiking Torres del Paine is doable, without any special gear, as a day hike.
See the snow!
- Torres del paine is wonderful
- The Perito moreno is at its best
- El Chalten might be hard to see, but hiking is possible
- Many tours, mostly by cars wit small groups run around, shop in town
- All the museums should be open
- No penguins near Punta Arenas
- Antarctica is off limit in winter
And that’s it!
Bring warm clothes, plan ahead for hotels and transportation
