(Loading test, there is a cross-site cookie issue on my dev server)Tanzania, Kenya, Ouganda & Rwanda: 4 Countries in one month!
> As I’m starting with this blog, I’ll share in a slightly different format.
I’ll start with my usual considerations before giving an itinerary outline and an even more detailed version of the itinerary.
originally, it was supposed to last one more week, it changed due to a awful event that happened And shook me up, I’ll specify the section that has been changed.
Before diving into my itinerary, a few considerations:
- English is the Lingua Franca in the region, but in Rwanda many people speak french instead
- I actually came from Ethiopia, crossing through Kenya using the Moyale border
- Backpacking is not a big thing in East Africa
- It might be dangerous at times, I don’t recommend going alone
- It’s by no mean a cheap destination
- Info is hard to get online, I’ll try to bring as much useful intel I can
- Prices date from 2023, might have hiked up in the meantime
____
Note: This article detailing logistic can be a nice read as well
Tips on how to travel Africa
I got this one too, for Cheap safaris!
Tips for Cheap Safaris
Itinerary done quick
🇹🇿 TANZANIA
| Day | Destination | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Day 1 | Arusha | Arrival, Safari prep |
| Day 2 | Arusha - Tarangire | Safari - Tarangire |
| Day 3 | Arusha - Ngorongoro | Safari - Ngorongoro |
| Day 4 | Arusha - Manyara | Safari - Manyara |
| Day 5 | Moshi | Transfer |
| Day 6 | Moshi | Hike foot of Kilimanjaro |
| Day 7 | Lushoto | Scenic drive |
| Day 8 | Lushoto | Hiking |
| Day 9 | Zanzibar | Long bus Dar + ferry |
| Day 10 | Zanzibar - Stone Town | Stone Town |
| Day 11 | Zanzibar - Prison Island | Prison island + sand beach |
| Day 12 | Zanzibar - Spices | Spice tour + boat in the evening |
| Day 13 | Kilwa Masoko | South coast |
| Day 14 | Kilwa Kisiwani | Ruins visit |
| Day 15 | Kilwa Kivanje | Around Kilwa |
| Day 16 | Dar es Salaam | Return + visit |
| Day 17 | Bagamoyo | Stopover |
🇰🇪 KENYA
| Day | Destination | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Day 18 | Mombasa | Border crossing |
| Day 19 | Mombasa | Old town & more |
| Day 20 | Nairobi - Train | Afternoon train |
| Day 21 | Nairobi | Explore |
| Day 22 | Nairobi - NP | Day trip to National Park |
🇺🇬 UGANDA
| Day | Destination | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Day 23 | Kampala | Long road into Uganda + city |
| Day 24 | Kampala | City day |
| Day 25 | Fort Portal | Long transfer |
| Day 26 | Rwenzori | Trek |
| Day 27 | Rwenzori | Trek |
| Day 28 | Kabale | The worst road… |
| Day 29 | Lake Bunyoni | Lake Bunyonyi 1 |
| Day 30 | Lake Bunyoni | Lake Bunyonyi 2 |
🇷🇼 RWANDA
| Day | Destination | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Day 31 | Kigali | Enter Rwanda, rest |
| Day 32 | Kigali | Enjoy the city |
| Day 33 | Ruhengeri | Arrive and prepare |
| Day 34 | Volcanoes NP | Volcanoes/Gorillas |
| Day 35 | Kibuye | Get to see Lake Kivu |
| Day 36 | Kigali | Departure |
That’s it! Do click on the links (destination name) to learn more!
Tanzania
Day 1 Arrival in Arusha
Most travelers land at Kilimanjaro Airport and reach Arusha by shuttle, some cross the border from Kenya (There are border transfer services, it last around 6 hours and it was an easy border. Be prepared to have a lot of people selling you stuff) And other takes a long bus from Dar Es Salaam, Tanzania’s capital. Apparently it’s a gruesome 10 hours. Otherwise, it’s a bit less than 3 hours from Moshi.
I actually came by land from Moyale in Ethiopia. It took me two days and a half, in retrospect, that was a stupid move. (For those interested (???) I went Konso -> Yabelo -> Moyale -> Slept at the border -> Marsabit -> Nairobi -> Slept in the streets -> Arusha) I saw a lot of landscapes along the way and did encounter funny people, strange locals and saw tribes out and about, it’s part of the adventure.
Anyway, use the afternoon to get oriented, withdraw a good amount of cash, VERY IMPORTANT TO DO buy a local SIM (Vodacom or Airtel), and check a few safari agencies. I like to do my “shopping” with local agencies, even though prices are pretty much aligned.
More tips here (I’m lazy, I won’t C-Paste my content): Tips for Cheap Safaris. Join a group with a local operator: it’s easy to arrange last minute, and you can get three-days safaris under 500€.
Arusha isn’t the prettiest city, there aren’t a lot of sights: a few Hindu temples, gardens and a couple of art centers; I’d say that it’s more than enough for an afternoon.
Welcome to Africa btw.
Day 2 Arusha – Safari (Tarangire)
I went on a three days safari with the local agency linked to the Arusha Backpackers hostel, (I don’t remember the name), A Tunisian guy, Bessa - owner of the first hostel in Tunis helped me, out with the negociations. It’s always better negociating with a friend.
Safaris starts early. Expect a long drive into Tarangire, a forested area famous for its elephants (see the picture). The day was kinda long, but it was a blast, very reminescent of Thoiry back home (it’s a drive-in Zoo). It was my first real safari and that was really exciting, I was beaming!
Your guide will help you spot all the wildlife, but they will normally remain pretty far from the animals, especially if they are a licensed guide that respect this very same wildlife.
I slept in a tent in a camp, where I listened to Jambo Bwana for the first time. It was fun and simple.
The big five can be spotted right from the first day, if ya lucky
Day 3 Arusha – Safari (Ngorongoro)
Wake up before sunrise to enter the Ngorongoro Crater.
It’s a long descent into a massive bowl of wildlife, in the coldest of morning.
When I went it was overly misty: Visibility was shit.
The first few hours were rough and we missed the migration by weeks, changes in weather patterns messed things up…
See the picture for the view/weather. Not that bad, actually, right? We spotted wildlife every 5 minutes or something, it felt like a railshooter. Anyone played Pokemon Snap before? That’s the feeling.
We camped near the Crater’s rim. You can hear the animals at night, noice.
Fact: Technically, the Ngorongoro is part of the Serengeti, even though it’s a different NP
Fact 2: The name is supposedly the sound of a bell
Day 4 Arusha – Safari (Manyara)
Final day of my safari, visiting Lake Manyara National Park.
Fewer crowds and good birdlife + Monke.
It was my less favorite. I got tired after the first few hours. Safaris are not for me, they get exhausting after a while/
Manyara is home to the tree climbing lions, have fun trying to spot them!
Day 5 Road to Moshi
In the morning, I went to see the waterfalls near Arusha. It wasn’t worth it, folks try to make you pay every half hour and they are
boring.
So… Take a morning bus or shared minivan to Moshi (2–3 h).
They are easy to find near the main bus station in Arusha, people will propose you the bus even if you don’t ask anyway.
The town of Moshi sits at the foot of Mount Kilimanjaro. That’s the target. If you’re lucky, you might see it in its full glory.
I went in the later afternoon, it was a hard mistake. Always arrive at your destination during day time.
Story time: I came at night, had no sim card (I forgot) and my hostel (Mad Vervet Moshi) was a junkie nest where someone kidnapped me and forcefully brought me to an hotel with naked guys. So… Avoid, be careful, don’t go alone. Be safe. This is no joke.
Day 6 Moshi
Shaken by the event of the day before I just went on a half-day hike around Materuni Falls, at the foot of Mount Kilimanjaro.
I met a nice man, that helped me immensely and spent time with his family. A nice “tuk-tuk” driver with a heart of Gold.
I also switched hotel and found a safer place.
Story time 2: I had been with the police the night before. Had a contact with them, but they were off. In a restaurant, far from the crime, Another policeman talked to me, heard about the case, gave me his phone number and all. Said it was just in case, to keep me safe, as the police deals in dark trades. Actually, he just wanted to you-know-what. I had to block him due to the almost nude pictures of himself he sent me. Thrice. He called with different numbers and tried to find me in the city.
Day 7 Road to Lushoto
I took a bus, early in the morning, trying to escape the dense gay policeman.
It was a long ride (6–7 h) through the mountains toward Lushoto in the Usambara Hills.
That part of my trip is blurry. I can’t recall much.
I slept in a new hostel by the road, a bit higher than the town. A man named Emanuel and his family settled there
and do honey keeping. I shared meals with them as well as watch a few show on the local TV.
Day 8 Lushoto
^A view of Lushoto from the heights
I Spent the day hiking to the Irente Viewpoint. The trail was nice, going through nature fror some bits and through local villages with nice kids greeting you at every opportunity. All of this was still a blur for me.
Day 9 Road to Zanzibar
^Dar-Es-Salaam seen from the dock
I caught a morning bus toward Dar es Salaam (6 hours?), then the ferry to Zanzibar (2 hours?).
To get the bus, I asked Emmanuel, the hostel owner to call the company and they picked me up in front of the hostel.
It was super late and took forever to reach Dar, more than it was supposed to.
I arrived around 3:30/4:00 PM and caught a ferry by taking a motorbike from the first bus station, I was scared of being late…
But, I made it in time, with half an hour of earliness to validate my ticket and everything.
Careful at the docks, there are many places selling fake tickets, hundreds of scammers and weirdoes. I had to fight my way through, it was physical.
The trip is relaxing and comfy, the waves hadn’t started yet. Expect to arrive by evening to visit the beautiful Stone Town after dark; it’s safer and lively.
Day 10 Stone Town
^The dispensary in Old town, it’s a medical center
Explore the maze of Stone Town by daylight: the Old Fort, the markets, and the sea promenade.
I ate at Forodhani Gardens, where locals grill food every night, it’s overrated.
For lunch I went to a local shop and had much better food. Small hole in the wall without a name. Ate there for
most meals afterwards.
I recommend seeing the Jail for some hardcore history, the fort to see the activities (it’s lively), the palaces,
eventually Freddy Mercury house, and… just enjoy!
I liked Stone Town quite a bit.
I saw the sellers in the famous market shit behind their stall, close to the merchandise 🤮
Day 11 Prison Island and Beach
^For the beach lovers
Take a boat/tour to Prison Island to see the giant tortoises and the jail
then spend the afternoon on one of the nearby sandbanks or beaches.
I found a local agency at the fort with good tours, they were a blast to speak with (Jambo tour or smth like that) and where
neatly organized.
(If you want more comfort and relaxation, base yourself in Nungwi or Paje for the next days. I heard good things, except for the male prostitutes)
Day 12 Spice Tour
Join a spice tour inland! I went with the same tour company as the day before. It’s a bit touristy, but worth it for the smells and samples (Plus, I was alone, so I had my very own private tour to the farm) That’s a good half day spent for something important.
In the evening, hop on a small dhow boat for sunset and/or return to Dar. I did the later as my bus left very early.
Day 13 Road to Kilwa Masoko
Ferry back to Dar, then catch a southbound bus (8–9 h) toward Kilwa Masoko.
There were two bus to Kilwa: One leaves at 5:30, the other at noon. There might be other companies, but I have no intel on those. To get the bus I mototaxied to the station Mbagala Rangi Tatu and caught the bus at 7AM (Might have been late). At the bus station, there were those balls snacks that the Malagasy often make, it’s bloody delicious!
The road was long and without any major sight, everything looked the same until the azure coast. Onward it’s just villages, with a lovely pace of life.
After a long time I reached the hostel: The Slow Leopard. Absolutely amazing quality! They also have another location in Dar, I definitely recommend it.
I spent the evening relaxing and shopping for tours to Kilwa Kisiwani. I ended up going with the tourism information center, this was the most obvious choice.
Day 14 Kilwa Kisiwani
I’m bad at taking pictures, and the sun wasn’t nice to me.
Visit the Kilwa Kisiwani ruins: once a major Swahili trading port and a World Wonder in Sid Meier’s Civilization VI. Yes, that’s why I went.
We got a boat for two (I met a scientist along the way) We were only two tourists!
It’s calm, scenic and pictures can’t do it justice… It was expensive, quite a detour and exhausting, but I don’t regret it.
Day 15 Kilwa Kivanje
I visited the nearby Kilwas with the guide from the tourism bureau. It’s not particularily interesting, but I was a much cheaper visit and it was relaxing. I then spent the evening relaxing at the beach. You’ll need that before continuing your way south to Mozambique or back north to Kenya.
Day 16 Back to Dar es Salaam
Return north (6–7 h).
If you haven’t yet, explore Dar-Es-Salam a bit.
I didn’t really like the city, it had no soul.
But I had to waste a day here (So two days of transport wasted to See Kilwa, do what you want)
Dar is known for being a bit unsafe, be careful if visiting alone
Day 17 Bagamoyo
Short bus from Dar (1h 30 min).
Bagamoyo is a small coastal town with colonial buildings, it’s like Lamu or Tanga:
A typical Swahili coast city.
A quiet final stop before crossing into Kenya and a good way to slightly break the trip. To sleep, either: In Bagamoyo, back to Dar, or in Tanga, a bit more north.
What did I do? I don’t know… I relapsed a bit and the blur started again.
Day 18 Road to Mombasa
Early bus through Lunga Lunga border post.
Expect an almost full-day ride and an arrival in Mombasa by evening.
Find accommodation near the Old Town: There aren’t many places for backpackers.
I found one on top of a restaurant, it was on GMaps, but I can’t find it anymore.
It was held by a nice lady.
Saw some people shitting in the streets in the middle of everything 🤮
Kenya
Day 19 Mombasa
Explore Fort Jesus, the Old Town’s narrow lanes, eat Swahili street food, see the thousands bats, the sculptures…
But don’t take pictures of the government building, even though they are very Heritage, it’s forbidden.
Day 20 Road to Nairobi
Take the SGR train to Nairobi (6 h).
But be warned, the station security is airport like and it’s 10km out of town.
Prepare to be there early!
Modern, air-conditioned, surprisingly punctual… Relax and enjoy the scenery and the modernity.
If you’re lucky, you can spot wildlife from your window, especially elephants, girafes and zebras.
Day 21 Nairobi
Arrive and get used to the city again.
Walk around the center and see the National Museum.
Careful, they will make you pay twice if you don’t pay attention, they took my card, swiped it twice, I got charged twice.
They threw the other receipt in the bin, bunch of loosers.
I slept at the YHA, it was full of weirdos and fanatics.
The streets were littered with people drugged out of their minds and some people tried to rob me. A lot of street harassment too…
If you’re brave, visit. If you aren’t avoid.
Day 22 Nairobi2
Book a half-day tour to Nairobi National Park, it’s right outside the city.
Or see the giraffe mansion, the Karen Blixen Museum or whatever floats your boat.
Day trips to the national parks outside of the Nairobi NP are crazy expansive. The Hell’s gate NP is like 150€+ for a day. Jesus Heckin’ Christ.
Spend the late afternoon preparing for the long road to Uganda. I took a night bus.
Uganda
Day 23 Road to Kampala
Bus north through the Busia border (12h +).
Do take a night bus, it’s better.
Arrive in Kampala in the afternoon, visit the Gaddafi Mosque near the bus station or go to your hotel and visit whatever you want. It depends on your energy.
Kampala is crazy busy. Taking motorbike rides is especially crazy, no wonder there are a lot of road accidents and death. They call them boda-bodas here. But sometimes, I still say Tuk-Tuk.
Day 24 Kampala
Two options: Go to Jinja for rafting. Or, like me, visit the city a bit more in depth. I went to the Kasubi tombs, I checked viewpoints, ate some rolled eggs, saw the Hindu temple, rode Boda bodas at my life’s peril…
The city is chaotic but friendly, but walking is suicidal.
Day 25 Road to Fort Portal
Early departure west (7–8 h).
Fort Portal is green, with views of the Rwenzori Mountains.
There isn’t much to see, so I ate and went further in the mountains, through a road in construction
to get to my hostel.
Day 26 Rwenzori Mountains
Trek or hike shorter routes near the base.
If you’re not climbing fully, there are beautiful day trails around Ruboni Village.
Otherwise, try to get to a good altitude to see the unique plants.
Day 27 Rwenzori Mountains
Second day of hiking. You can sleep in one of the lodge then go higher to see the plants and stuff! Honestly, it’s one of the prettiest part of Eaast Africa.
Rwenzoris means moon mountains. What a lovely name!
Day 28 Road to Kabale
Rough day on bad roads.
It was like 12 hours, I got stuck at the back of a 12 seaters with 20 people.
A big black guy, sitting on my lap, a girl vomitting just in front of me, the only openable window open
right next to me, with stops lasting hours and autists trying to touch me or grab me.
It was genuinely awful. But at the time I went there, there were no other ways direct from the Rwenzoris.
A better/nicer option might be to go back to Kampala…
Day 29 Lake Bunyonyi
Arrive by noon and take a small boat across Lake Bunyonyi.
Quiet, scenic, dotted with small islands.
A perfect spot to rest and read!
Day 30 Lake Bunyonyi 2
Second day on the lake.
Kayak, read, and recharge before entering Rwanda.
I really needed this rest, and so did many travelers.
Rwanda
Day 31 Road to Kigali
Cross the border at Katuna.
Smooth and organized.
Arrive in Kigali by afternoon; it’s clean, hilly and calm.
I decided to relax.
Day 32 Kigali
Visit the Genocide Memorial, check a cafe or eat some Rolex (Rolled eggs) and the see the conference center.
The city is spotless and easy to navigate with moto-taxis. Be warned, the memorial is hardcore.
There aren’t many things to see in Kigali, but I love it.
Good Read: Petit Pays from Gael Faye is a must, if you want to understand the life of those who survived the genocide, it explains things nicely
Day 33 Ruhengeri
Bus north (3h30 min).
Gateway to Volcanoes National Park.
Cooler weather, nice mountain views, but nothing else; Do what you can with your free time,
I decided to read, play video games and eat in restaurants.
Day 34 Volcanoes NP
Gorilla trekking if your budget allows and you want to support wildlife or… See them for free by doing the caldera day hike. If ya lucky, that’s it. I met a traveler that did it the day before I did and had great pictures of gorillas.
Careful of the gorilla scam, locals will tell you they have a way to see gorillas for “cheap”. Apparently, there will never be gorillas. I don’t fall into scams, so I didn’t check.
Day 35 Kibuye
Head south by bus (4h).
Kibuye sits on Lake Kivu, full of islands and fishing boats.
Great sunsets and peaceful evenings.
If you have time, you can enjoy the Congo Nile trail, it was my original plan You walk for 5 days or more along the shore. It sounds a bit samey, but it might be nice.
Day 36 Return to Kigali
Back to Kigali (3h).
Use the last day for shopping, coffee, or just resting before your flight.
It’s the end of the article and I’m getting lazy!
