Kazakhstan → Kyrgyzstan → Tajikistan → Uzbekistan → Turkmenistan

Two months, five countries, deserts, mountains, and Silk Road legends.

My 40-days trip through Central Asia, from the Caspian Sea to the Gates of Hell.

Before diving into the itinerary, a few notes:

• Route: Kazakhstan → Kyrgyzstan → Tajikistan → Uzbekistan → Turkmenistan
• Budget: ~25–30 €/day (around 1,800€ total, excluding flights)
• Entry notes: E-visas are easy for most nationalities except Turkmenistan (needs LOI).
• Cash: Always carry USD, ATMs can be unreliable.
• Transport: Marshrutkas, trains, shared taxis, and a few domestic flights.
• Best season: Late spring to early autumn.

Itinerary done quick

🇰🇿 Kazakhstan

🇰🇬 KYRGYZSTAN

🇹🇯 TAJIKISTAN

🇺🇿 UZBEKISTAN

🇹🇲 TURKMENISTAN

Kazakhstan

🇰🇿 Kazakhstan

Day 1 Aktau

Welcome to Aktau, a Kazakh seaside city where white cliffs meet the Caspian Sea and desalination plants. The sea breeze makes the promenade near the cliffs pleasant, and locals are out running, cycling, and fishing.

A striking Soviet influence is visible in large avenues, dilapidated buildings, and dust everywhere. Without oil, Aktau would not have grown into the city it is today.

The morning is ideal for exploring the coast. Take a walk along the Skalnaya Tropa Promenade, a 1.5km scenic path along the cliffs, perfect for morning photos. Spot the Melovoy Lighthouse, built atop a residential building, and visit city landmarks like the Ship Statue and the monument to Ukrainian writer Taras Shevchenko.

Aktau serves as the gateway to the Mangystau region. Use the afternoon to book a tour to Mangystau. I personnaly used RedMaya Travel. If you have more time in the city, do visit the mosque, the memorial and spot the countless soviet murals on the walls.

Day 2 Torysh & Sherkala

Early departure with a small group leads out of Aktau. The back city reveals former gulag-style apartments and silent oil wells. Beyond the industrial edge, the steppe suddenly bursts into life.

Camels, dromedaries, horses, and goats roam freely across the surprisingly green steppe. Summer rains have transformed the desert into fertile grazing land.

The first stop is Torysh – Valley of the Balls, filled with spherical rocks covered in marine fossils. Scientists remain puzzled by their origin. After a short break for lunch at a small roadside restaurant, the 4x4 drives further into the steppes.

Next, climb Kolkala, the Blue Mountain, for its colorful strata and quartz formations. Nearby is Sherkala – Tiger Mountain, a large isolated rock with hidden tunnels once used as a fort and lookout. The day ends at Airakty Shomanai, where rocky “castles” surround the camp. Sunset and sunrise here are breathtaking, under the stars of the Tengri sky.

Day 3 Bozjyra Plateau

An early start involves packing tents and heading out for a long drive, passing desert villages and an oil town. The Ustyurt Plateau eventually opens into Bozjyra, a white, rocky plain with isolated cones, towers, and fang-like formations rising from the steppe.

Few animals are seen beyond marmots and traces of goats. Rain and wind later force a move to a more sheltered roadside camp.

This one was my favourite day of the trip, Bozjyra is truly grand.

Day 4 Tiramisu Canyon & Boktu

The morning brings clear skies and scorching heat. Visit Tiramisu Canyon, with creamy white walls cut by brown striations and abundant fossils. The canyon is unique and photogenic.

A detour to Boktu Mountain underlines the desert’s extreme heat. Optical illusions and mirages make the landscape seem otherworldly. Return to Aktau late in the day, exhausted and ready for showers.

Day 5-6 Astana

I took an early morning flight to Astana. The train would have been far too long (close to 24h!)

This city is modern, green, and beautifully planned, a stark contrast to Aktau.

Over two days, walk the city, explore parks, squares, and monuments such as Baiterek, Hazrat Sultan Mosque, the Palace of Peace and Reconciliation, and Khan Shatyr, as well at the brand new mosque, at the edge of the city. It is the bigget mosque of Central Asia, but it strangely devoid of believers.

Construction is ongoing for metro lines and other infrastructure, hopefully it will open soon.

The capital is sunny and open, requiring sunscreen and patience for long pedestrian detours.

Day 7 Aqmola & Alzhir

Morning trip north from Astana to Aqmola.
I used Yandex to find the needed bus and made my way to Aqmola, it took around one hour.

Visit Alzhir, the gulag for wives and children of political prisoners under Stalin. The memorial is striking but leaves a sense of absence; exhibits are sparse compared to expectations. Walking the grounds, the scale and solitude of the site make the oppression feel palpable.

Return to Astana in the afternoon and prepare for a night train to Almaty. Those trains are comfortable and the trip will ends in no time, even though it lasts 17 hours.

Day 8 Almaty City

Arrival in Almatyn an historical city that did not preserve its history.

Visit the Green Bazaar for local foods and snacks, Panfilov Park and Zenkov Cathedral, a colorful wooden building, close to an older traditional building (the musicial instrument museum, I believe). If you have time, take the cable car to Kok Tobe for city views. Museums like the Central State Museum offer historical context, but I haven’t been there, someone told me it was more or less the same than the one in Astana.

The city feels like Grenoble (The french chicago) without delinquency, with parks as calm oases amid Soviet urbanism.

IT’s a really nice city to spend some time in and to base yourself for hikes.

Day 9 Big Almaty Lake

I went to hike to Big Almaty Lake with a friend, starting a bit late due to delays. he route follows a paved road, then water pipes requiring ropes. Military restrictions make the lake hard to access; it appears nearly empty, a contrast to iconic photos. So it was utterly disappointing.

I inclded it here because in the end it’s my itinerary, but, it’s much better to skip it and add one more day from the trip to Charyn and Kolsai.

Contoversely, at sunset, the scenery is spectacular, at least ansd at last, a good thing.

Day 10 Canyons and Lakes

Book one of the numerous tour to get out of the city, especially one for Kolsai, Kaindy and the charyn canyon.

Two days is better than one, I did it in one, it wasn’t great. Everything was rushed and my group was super slow.

The first step is Lake Kolsai, abeautiful lake born from an earthquake, amidst a pine forest.

Next is Lake Kaindy, where a flooded forest presents a surreal scene. Dead tree trunks rise vertically from the water, preserved after a historical landslide. Walking along the shore allows full appreciation of its haunting beauty.

Finally, explore Charyn Canyon (Valley of Castles). Dramatic red cliffs, jagged formations, and visible wildlife make this a mesmerizing landscape.

Day 11 Shymbulak Ski resort

A ski resort?? Yu^p, it’s also a place to hike.

Hike above 3000 meters in the Tian Shan, near the Shymbulak ski resort.

The 1000-meter climb passes green alpine meadows to glaciers and snow. The hike is rocky, slippery, and slow, though a cable car from the base helps. Scenery is breathtaking, and locals are friendly, offering water and support along the route. Descent is tiring and even more slippery.

I’d recommend the cable car on the way down, but be careful, it gets crowded. And it’s stupidly expensive too.

Day 12 Toward Bishkek

From the Almaty central bus station, take one of the numerous bus to Bishkek. They leave every two hours or something similar.

The bus ride covers 200 km in ~5 hours due to the border crossing.
Evening is reserved for rest and recovery.

For travelers heading further to Karakol, buses run via Bishkek and around Lake Issyk Kul, a long but scenic route.

Kyrgyztan

Day 13 Bishkek

A simple day: Do a walk in the tiny city center, still under construction in parts.

Bishkek is flat, wide, and rather uninspiring. Tourists mostly come for the State History Museum, excellent for Soviet and nomadic history, and the new mosque, a Turkish-built replica inspired by Hagia Sophia.

The hostel I went in Apple Hostel Bishkek, in contrast to the city, was alive with travelers: young hikers, solo backpackers, and small groups exchanging stories and planning routes. The evening was spent chatting, meeting new people, and swapping travel tips.

Day 14 Ala-Archa National Park

Early morning departure to Ala-Archa National Park, just south of Bishkek.

A half-day hike follows trails through pine forests and steep valleys. Streams and small waterfalls punctuate the path, while jagged peaks rise suddenly from the valley floor.

Ala-Archa is perfect for a mountain experience: accessible, yet offering a sense of remoteness. Trails are well-marked, but slippery rocks and mountain streams require attention. It’s easy to reach, there is a bus going straight to the trailhead, I found it on Yandex. Most hostels know the bus and where to take it.

Day 15-17 Song-Kul

Three days spent at Song-Kul, combining horse trekking and yurt stays.

Departure early morning from Bishkek, traversing valleys and mountain passes to reach Kyzart village. After lunch, each traveler receives a horse, with bags attached. The horses are independent and guide the ride across valleys, rivers, and ridges, experiencing drastic temperature drops from 30°C to 10°C.

Nights are spent in shared yurts, cold but charming. Over the following days, the trek alternates between steep mountain climbs and open plains for galloping. Horses move with grace through herds of horses and cattle, fully immersing travelers in steppe life.

On the final day, descend toward a lush village valley, Song-Kul fading behind. Afternoon transfer with six other travelers heads toward Karakol, saving time despite the long journey. Arrival is late evening.

It was my first multi days hike on a horse, it was truly something. I hate horses, but someone roped me into going, so I spent three days on a fart machine that did whatever he wanted. Great!

Day 18 Karakol

Karakol sits between Lake Issyk-Kul and the Tien Shan mountains, population around 100,000, swelling in summer with tourists.

Stroll the lively streets, cafés full of Russian and European visitors, and nearby small beaches on the lake. Local architecture is diverse: Russian-style “gingerbread” houses, a Tatar mosque, a Dungan mosque, and Dungan-Chinese restaurants. The bazaar is built from shipping containers.

I went there straight after Song-Kul, using a shared taxi from Kyzart, it took around 7 hours due to road constructions.

it’s the most beautiful city of Kyrgyztan, probably because it’s a russian/dungan city. I really aprpeciated the abundance of Dungan food.

Day 19 Jeti-Ögüz

Morning visit to the famous Sunday animal market, the largest in Central Asia. Livestock includes cows, horses, and sheep.
(Do it when it’s a sunday, if it’s not, spend more time around Jeti Ogyuz, there are nice hikes in the area)

Mid-morning minibus takes the group to Jeti-Ögüz, with a shared taxi for the final stretch (~1.50€). The hike features red rock cliffs and alpine valleys. The trail to the viewpoint is less exciting, but scenery remains beautiful.

Ask for Jeti Oguz Kogort (Resort), only a handful of buses go there, and not year round, seemingly not everyday either.

Return to Karakol involves hitchhiking due to missing minibus service. Arrival around 17:00.

Day 20 Altyn Arashan

Early departure via minibus from Karakol bazaar to trailhead. The first hour is muddy and under construction, with essential old water pipelines visible.

Begin an 8-hour alpine hike with a companion. Dense pine forests, gray river valleys, and horses grazing accompany the path. Russian jeeps ferry non-hikers (~20€ each). Arrival at the yurt camp occurs in rain, with the valley more touristy than online photos suggest. The return hike can be done by hitching after the last minibus. A long, wet, and tiring day. But so worth it!! When you look up pictures of Kyrgyztan online, you’ll often see the Altyn Arashan valley. Now it’s crowded with camps, yurts, tourists and booming infrasture, but you can still find nice spots, especially going further.

If you’re lazy, you can use a car to go up or down. They ask for 40€ or something similar.

Day 21 Trip to Osh

Transport day covers ~400 km to Osh, split into a 6-hour minibus and 12-hour overnight cargo bus through mountains. Summer heat and constant horn honking make it exhausting. Arrival is the next morning.

• Important notes

There is no real night bus to Osh. At least not in 2025. Go to the market and find a Cargo Bus

It’s at the “Kerben section” of the Dordoi market says people online. I haven’t found ths Kerben thing, but I went where cargo bus were loaded and found one leaving to Osh, I was allowed to seat behind the drivers. The whole night was seated with a family of four across a single row. Ouch. It was around 20€ for the privilege.

Day 22 Osh & Pamir Highway Start

Osh, the second city of Kyrgyzstan, is more Uzbek in character but surprisingly modern. Streets feature bubble tea, ice cream, pizza, and bars. Sacred mountain is unimpressive; the city is partially under reconstruction.
Dont waste time there it’s essentially just a starting point to the Pamir Highway or to Peak Lenin.

Prepare for the Pamir Highway, a 7-day jeep journey through Gorno-Badakhshan toward Dushanbe. Afternoon briefing, then departure through arid mountains separating Fergana Valley from Alay Valley.

Day 23-24 Peak Lenin / Pamir Highlights

Journey climbs to 3,500 meters, passing villages and rivers with red mountains in view.

Stop at Lake Tulpir Kul, overnight in yurts. Peak Lenin viewpoints reveal snow-capped peaks (~7,000m) and glaciers.

With my group we spent one evening and a morning there, we did a small hike and enjoyed the red and green mountains as well as the multi colored lakes. Honestly, one of Kyrgyztan’s prettiest area.

Tadjikistan

Day 25 Karakul Lake

After a morning drive from Peak Lenin, we reached the border then went on to Karakul Lake, altitude ~3,600 meters.

The lake sits in a high-altitude desert, surrounded by jagged peaks and minimal vegetation. The water is clear blue and mirrors the mountains, creating a dramatic backdrop. Small local encampments are scattered along the shore. The wind can be strong, and temperatures drop rapidly in the late afternoon.

Evening spent at the motel from THe Shining near the lake. It’s cold and barebone. Just like the landscape. Welcome to Tadjikistan.

Day 26 Murghab Plateau

A long day of driving, about 6.5 hours over rough roads.

The route passes through abandoned villages and vast desert scenery before reaching Murghab, the main hub. Murghab is a container town, poor but trading with China, with a small, somber market. Beyond Murghab, the road quality deteriorates further, dominated by trucks.

We stopped at a small, crystal-clear pond teeming with fish, and continued to Alichur, a village of ~800 inhabitants split between Kyrgyz and Pamiri communities. Locals invited us into an impromptu football game, and we tasted yak milk ice cream and enjoyed a yak steak dinner. The night sky was breathtakingly clear, filled with stars.

Day 27 Langar & Wakhan Valley

Departed Alichur toward Langar, near the Afghan border.

Midway, we stopped at a high-altitude lake for photos, then hiked about three hours, reaching up to 4,800 meters. Marmots and wildflowers dotted the landscape, and the views across the Panj River into Afghanistan were spectacular. Descending to 3,000 meters, greenery and trees returned. Langar village is forested, with a guesthouse offering hot water and electricity—a rare luxury in this remote area. It’s a nice spot to rest and to explore the local culture.

Day 28 Yamchun Fortress

Morning drive to Khorog, with a stop at Yamchun Fortress, XII-century ruins perched above the valley. The fortress once guarded historic Afghan trade routes and offers panoramic views.

We visited Bibi Fatima hot springs, mingling with locals in the warm waters (naked lol).

A light hike along the Panj River provided glimpses of both Afghan and Tajik villages. Arrival in Khorog, Gorno-Badakhshan’s capital (~38,000 inhabitants), was quiet and pleasant, though attractions are limited. The vibe there was bad. A member of anoither group got attacked by a guy with a rock, ended up going to the hospital. My group was followed by a weirdo named Hugo, trying his best to take the girls with him. He followed us everywhere and was always close by, preying.

Day 29 Kalaikhum

Six hours of driving along scenic but under-construction roads.

The Panj River provided the most striking views, with occasional stops in tiny villages. Kalaikhum itself is a minimal settlement, offering a chance to observe the Afghan border and wash clothes. The only thing worthwhile to do is resting and watching the afghans from afar. A bit boring.

Day 30 Dushanbe

The final leg of the Pamir Highway brought us to Dushanbe. The drivers pushed hard, stopping briefly at the Afghanistan viewpoint and Hulbuk Fortress (XII century, with a small museum). A short visit to Nurek Reservoir, with its clear waters and island, completed the leg. Arrival in Dushanbe at 16:00 was a relief; internet access and city comforts felt luxurious.

In the end, the best part of the trip was the people I have been with. Otherwise, the landscapes are a bit boring for the most part, the vibe is usually weird,
the company scammed me a few bucks and robbed me of two days, plus were unable to answer queries… Its not a must do, just like Vietnam’s Ha Giang loop, it’s overblown and overrated;

Perhaps it’s better on a motorbike, like many do. I guess it’s part of the appeal.

Day 31 and 32 Panjakent Seven Lakes

Morning transfer to Panjakent, near Uzbek border.

• Explore local bazaar, taste regional cuisine.
• Do a short excursions to Seven Lakes area.
• See the sunset over archaeological ruins of old Panjakent.

It’s great if you transfer to Uzbekistan from there. I mostly followed other people here before heading to Khujand.

If you desire to skip it, use that time to get one more day in Dushanbe, and perhaps one more day for the Fergana valley or something.

Day 33 Khujand – Historic City

Shared taxi from Panjakent (~4 hours) to Khujand, the second-largest city in Tajikistan.

Khujand is historic, with ancient ruins, a reconstructed fort, small museum, and mausoleum. City parks, the 24-meter Stalin statue, and modern interpretations of architecture provide points of interest.

Khujand contrasts sharply with the remote Pamir villages and alpine landscapes, marking the end of the Tajikistan leg of the journey.

The city is worth it for its big museum
(close to the boring Sugd historical museum, from the entrance, go left until you find the small gate heading inside) You’ll find a fake village, a building similar to the one in Uzbekistan, with hilarious paintings of the great leader inside as well as a hill overlooking th ecity, (site of cities built by Alexander and Cyrus the greats)

Uzbekistan

Day 35 and 36 Tashkent

Crossing from Khujand into Uzbekistan takes time beneath the blazing sun. The Tajik side involves long queues and a single building for passport control, while the Uzbek side proves faster but no less chaotic. The final leg to Tashkent feels like a scene from a road movie; crowded marshrutkas, animated drivers, and endless detours through suburban streets before the capital’s skyline finally appears.

Tashkent greets travelers with wide boulevards, fountains, and the scent of freshly cut grass from its manicured parks. Despite its size, the city feels calm and deliberate. The Chorsu Bazaar bursts with color; pyramids of spices, towers of melons, and endless chatter beneath the domed roof. Nearby, Soviet‑era mosaics blend with Islamic architecture, a visual reminder of Uzbekistan’s layered past.

A ride through the Tashkent Metro, built in the 1970s, reveals marble halls and chandeliers worthy of a museum. Above ground, monumental brutalist buildings line vast avenues leading to the Amir Timur Square and the reconstructed Khast‑Imam complex, where ancient Qurans and blue‑tiled domes contrast the modern skyline. By night, the parks glow with fountains and soft music; a gentle end to the capital’s urban rhythm.

Day 37 and 38 Samarkand

The morning bus from Tashkent reaches Samarkand by early afternoon. Heat shimmers over the city’s turquoise domes, and the Gur‑i Amir Mausoleum rises like a mirage; its golden interior reflecting the ambition of Timur’s empire. A short walk away lies the legendary Registan, three madrassas framing the square with perfect symmetry. At sunset, the tiles flare gold and cobalt, and the evening light‑and‑sound show fills the plaza with theatrical grandeur.

Beyond the monuments, Bibi Khanym Mosque stands half‑restored yet magnificent, while nearby markets hum with daily life. The following morning is devoted to Ulug Beg Observatory, a tribute to the region’s scientific legacy. The Afrosiyob ruins whisper of ancient Maracanda, their surviving frescoes hinting at forgotten empires. Finally, the Shah‑i Zinda necropolis dazzles with a corridor of blue domes and ornate façades; one of Central Asia’s most striking sights.

As daylight fades, travelers often continue toward Bukhara, a long road west through endless fields and distant mountains.

Day 39 and 40 Bukhara

Bukhara reveals itself as a labyrinth of sand‑colored walls, minarets, and quiet courtyards. The Po‑i Kalyan complex dominates the skyline, its great minaret once serving as both landmark and legend. Around it, mosques, madrassas, and caravanserais evoke centuries of Silk Road history. The air carries the scent of samsas baking in clay ovens, mingling with the sound of prayers and merchants calling from shaded stalls.

Mornings are perfect for exploring the Ark Fortress or wandering through narrow lanes where artisans still craft ceramics and jewelry. In the afternoon, the Lyabi Hauz square becomes the city’s living room; locals gather beneath mulberry trees, sipping tea by the reflecting pool. At dusk, Bukhara glows softly, its monuments turning amber under the desert sun, the hum of voices fading into calm.

Day 41 and 42 Khiva

The journey west continues by train through the steppe, leading to the walled oasis of Khiva. The Ichan Kala old town feels almost untouched, a compact maze of alleys, mud‑brick houses, and minarets glowing blue and sand‑gold under the heat. During the Melon Festival, the streets fill with music and parades, locals offering slices of sweet fruit to passing travelers.

Within the walls, the Kalta Minor Minaret stands unfinished but striking, wrapped in turquoise tiles. The Kuhna Ark, Tosh Hovli Palace, and countless madrassas preserve the flavor of a desert kingdom. By sunset, Khiva’s rooftops turn copper and rose, and the call to prayer echoes through the silent streets, a moment suspended in time.

Day 43 & 44 Nukus & Karakalpakstan

A long drive north leads to Nukus, gateway to the Karakalpakstan region and the once‑mighty Aral Sea. The Savitsky Museum surprises with avant‑garde Soviet art rescued from censorship, while outside the city the Mizdakhan Necropolis and nearby fortresses rise from the dust like mirages of an ancient world.

Further west, the landscape turns lunar a vast plain where ships once floated. The Ship Cemetery near Moynaq tells the story of ecological disaster: rusted hulls stranded in the sand, silent witnesses to a vanished sea. Travelers stand at the cliff edge overlooking the dry seabed, where waves no longer reach. The silence of Karakalpakstan is haunting, a fitting close to the long road across Central Asia.

Turmenistan

Tips on how to travel Turkemnistan

The Agency

There are plenty of agencies out there, but I can personally recommend the one and only Ruslan Hydyrov from IndieGuide. He was reliable, quick to answer emails, and knows the system inside out.

Contact:

• Phone: +993 61 67 22 66
• Mail: ruslanhydyrov@gmail.com

If you get in touch, tell him you come thanks to Timothé Paris (that’s me). He’ll know.

Day 45 Konye

First thing first, find your way in the country. I started from Uzbekitan. The logical road used to be UZ-TM-IR nowadays, it’s only possible to go from UZ to TM. So I went to the Shavat border in Uzbekistan, taking a shared taxi from Khiva One hour later I was at the border, filled with Turkmen coming home with their shopping (TVs, PS4, computer stuff, air fryers…).

After a very long and stupid trip (you have to pay a bus to cross 200m through the No man’s land), I reached the Turkmen outpost, met my guide, Ruslan there.

After paying the necessary 100$ or something for the visa, entry and covid test, I was in!

The price is not the same for everyone, check with your guide and our nationality Also, carry a lot of cash with fresh USD notes, it’s mandatory

So, yeah, I got in the country, my guide met me at the border, we got a driver and went all the way to Konye Urgench to see the ruins. Felt a bit meh compared to Uzbekistan, much more ruined and spread out. It’s still nice for history buffs, especially when doing a guided tour, thing I didn’t do back in UZ.

After Konye, we went to Darva- not. Back to the border town of Dashoguz. Yup, the road to Darvaza is not finished from Konye, so enjoy the long detour.

Finally, after a bumpy road that was dreadful, I arrived at Darvaza, the gates of Hell!

We visited at night to see the beautiful flames and the stars.

See the pictures:

Nice isn’t it?

Day 46 Darvaza

This is a bit mixed with the previous day, sorry.

(After a barbecue and some wildlife spotting, I slept in a Yurt near the crater until sunrise. The Darvaza crater during the day is quite a worrying sight, dying out and not much to boast. The gates to Hell are soon to be just a hole in the desert.

Anyaway, we continued, seeing other craters on the way as well as the sand dunes, through the bumpy road. To where? Ashgabat of course.

A city of white marble, of elegance, of rules (And of a ruler), dazzling in the desert. Ashgabat is only missing Aladdin and his flying carpet to be complete.

I thoroughly enjoyed the visit, mostly by car, to the grand buildings and all the center of interests. Everything is so spread apart and most of the touristic attractions are actually outside of the lively city. It’s not a ghost town, just that most things you see on the internet are located near government buildings and near a soon-to-be forest.

At night, the city is also quite lively, I walked freely, met some people, spoke with soldiers, shook I don’t know how many hands, said hi to everyone and well… just enjoyed the city by myself

Day 47 Ashgabat

Depending on you tour, you may have more time to have an in depth visit of Ashgabat. I think it’s worth it. The mosque is beautiful and the acoustic is incredible, it’s nice to see the busy train station, the roundabouts deserve their own tour, the indoor ferris wheel is stupid, the marriage center might be where you will find a bride, the station, a bribe… The commercial centers are nice for shopping too, shop for the dried apricots, they are lovely (Best I had so far).

On your way out, admire the airport built like a bird and enjoy the cheap, fixed rate, flights to europe and more. I went Ashgabat-Milano as Paris is not deserved since covid, it was inexpensive for the quality, the only downside was the 100€ bus to go back home. One hundred for a bus, sheesh, what a bunch of loonies. Turkmenistan > Italy.

Comments?