One of the hardest country to get into, fighting with north Korea for the title.
Here, I explain how to go to Turkmenistan and give a few tips.
The Visa
You cannot just turn up at the border and expect a stamp, this is one of the most closed country in the world.
Turkmenistan requires tourists to book through a local travel agency, and that agency will provide you with the Letter of Invitation (LOI).
The LOI is the key document: without it, no visa. Really.
Once you have it, you can apply for the visa itself. Prices vary a bit depending on your nationality, but expect around 55–85 USD for the visa fee, plus an additional 14 USD entry tax at the border.
As of September 2025, there is still a requirement for a COVID test at the border. Not only it’s fake, but it’s also 35 USD for the privilege.
In total, I gave 100$ with a crisp bill.
The Agency
There are plenty of agencies out there, but I can personally recommend the one and only Ruslan Hydyrov from IndieGuide. He was reliable, quick to answer emails, and knows the system inside out. *
Contact:
- Phone: +993 61 67 22 66
- Mail: ruslanhydyrov@gmail.com
If you get in touch, tell him you come thanks to Timothé Paris (that’s me). He’ll know.
The Border
At the moment (September 2025), the only open land border for tourists is near Dashoguz, the Shavat crossing from Uzbekistan.
If you’re coming overland, you’ll likely cross from Khiva (Uzbekistan) into Turkmenistan.
I took a Yandex shared with another traveler and found one in twenty minutes.
It’s an hour drive, be prepared for a long wait and to have to give a bonus to your driver. I gave the equivalent of a very good meal as a bonus.
Flights
Flying in or out is possible, you have to book a flight through the official Turkmenistan Airlines website https://turkmenistanairlinestr.com/tr-TR
From Ashgabat, there are direct flights to Istanbul, Milano, London and Frankfurt.
Prices are low for Central Asia.
To go to Milano, I paid around 220€, a steal!
Safety & Rules
Turkmenistan has a reputation for being strict, but in reality it’s not as scary as you think.
- Walking at night in Ashgabat is totally fine. I did it without issues or hassle, despite me not having a guide.
- Safety is basically guaranteed: There are no crimes.
- Beards and long hair are fine, despite rumors of them being illegal.
- There is quite a lot of freedom, but avoid taking pictures of the military and other sensitive stuff.
- Internet is 99% blocked, you need a good VPN or to forget about using the internet.
ATMs / Cost / Gifts
There are no ATMs in the country, bring enough cash. Online transfers are painful, getting USD at the border or in Uzbekistan is hard, paying by visa is a no as well. BRING CASH.
It costs a lot. Tours are private, so the more you are, the cheaper it is. Expect to pay up to 200 USD a day.
For gifts: The dried apricots are to die for. I brought like half a kilo of them, I should have brought two.
Final Notes
Turkmenistan is not an easy country to enter, but once inside, it’s a fascinating place.
The bureaucracy and fees are part of the package. If you prepare your documents, book through a good agency, and accept that things move at their own pace, you’ll be rewarded with one of the most unique trips you can have in Central Asia.
By the way here’s my itinerary: With the tour I did
